It’s done! My first Sd. Kfz. 222! Painted in standard (homemade) Dark Grey, with white Balkankreuzes and covered in a heavy coat of dust ICM SdKfz 222 side , this is meant to depict a reconaissance vehicle during Operation Barbarossa.

ICM SdKfz 222 one quarter

This is ICM’s  Sd.Kfz. 222 Leichter Panzerspähwagen in 1/72 scale, kit #72411. I mentioned in this post that it looked like the fiddly parts of it (axles etc.) were pre-done but of high quality, so it should be easily to build. Well, it was! A pleasure to build, paint and look at. ICM SdKfz 222 rear elevated

Why has it taken so long to finish if it was so straightforward and easy? Well, that’s called Real Life – it keeps interrupting me and my hobbies ^_^

I need 6 to make a proper recon platoon – will I be buying 5 more of these kits? I certainly will! This is my first ICM kit (I do have a truck to do, too, but it’s still in its box) and I’m very impressed with it.

I do have one recommendation to modellers – do be prepared to make some modifications to the photo-etched wire screens on the turret. I glued the guns in place on a very, very slight elevation above horizontal and found that the photo-etched wire screen wouldn’t sit neatly on the turret. It was the 20mm cannon barel that was causing the trouble. To remedy this, I cut away some of the frame and made a neat slot to accommodate the barrel, as you can see in this close-up: ICM SdKfz 222 had to mod wire screens .

It looks a little funny and wouldn’t pass muster in a modelling competition but will do the job for wargaming. So, if you’re thinking of buying this kit and want to have the guns raised to horizontal or above, you’ll have to think carefully about how to model and attach those anti-grenade wire screens.

It was a big Sunday

June 29, 2009

The brewed-up T-34/85 wreck terrain piece is done! Here’s the base that it rests on: T3485 modular base

Here’s the inked, drybrushed and matt-varnish-sealed piece that you’ve all been waiting for: T3485 profile T3485 side

From the above, you’ve now had a good look at the home-made Rust blend that I made, combining Blood Red with Brazen Brass and the Brown Ink (R.I.P.). It doesn’t look so powerful here, because I’ve gone and applied two very heavy washes over it of the new Citadel pre-mixed Wash (or watered-down Inks, curse it), Ogryn Flesh. I should have just used one medium coat of Ogryn Flesh – you can see the Rust has become very brown from the washes. The Ogryn Flesh Wash has helped to take the shiny Bronze edge off the Brass particles, though…I’m tempted to keep this homemade Rust to use for mufflers and the like, where they recommend using a Rust – usually I’ve just used Boltgun Metal washed twice with Flesh Ink (R.I.P.). Have a look at the rear of the T-34/85: T3485 rear I think the rust on those mufflers has worked well.

I remember now where the idea for this terrain piece first came from – I was watching another wargame rules-set being played at NWA one night, where a good friend was learning to play. The objective for both sides was to reach a tank in the middle of the board (an ‘objective marker’). I have blended that idea with photo evidence from various ‘eyewitness’ books of the Eastern Front, where wrecked tanks were used as forward Artillery Observation Posts (because they were safe to be under when you were being shelled).

So, the terrain piece is done, as well as the two Revell Tiger I’s that were done as company command vehicles. Apart from having slightly different numbers on the side, an extra aerial added on the turret and MGs mounted for air defence, they aren’t any different to the four Tigers I’ve already got. This time they are perfect, since I knew what to watch for during construction. The one error I made (and was fixed) was discovered just as I was about to varnish them –  I realised I’d left the Balkenkreusz off both tanks. That set me back two hours.  The numbering advice I’ve used comes from here.

Hills! Yes, more terrain.

I was able to undercoat the two hills you’d seen me prepare previously. First, you need to get some pinboard tacks, ones that don’t go all the way in to the end: Before tacks

Begin to stick the tacks in, about an inch apart from each other and at least half an inch (or more if your hill has a gentle gradient) apart: mid tack I advocate using as many tacks as possible, as some always come out during undercoating or flocking: end tack

If your hills aren’t standing completely free of the surface they rest on, get better tacks and start again: resting

Now you can begin undercoating. I’m using good old Brown Kayak acrylic from Haymes, painting from the top of the hill downwards: begin undercoat You don’t have to apply it thickly, but you do want to completely cover everything: undercoat continued and it’s best to undercoat while holding them in one hand. When you’ve completely covered all the white, put it down and let dry for 24 hours: undercoated

Tonight (monday night) I applied on a second undercoat. This time I applied it quite thickly, but again, I made sure I covered everything – sometimes little air pockets are formed as you apply the first coat and they will be uncovered during the drying – get the brush bristles in there and paint them in well.

Sometime next weekend I’ll begin the flocking.

I also washed a number of sprues in detergent and very warm water, then air dried  them. I use an old coat-hanger, cut and reshaped, to hang them on: drying washed sprues

Next weekend (earlier if there’s a good, warm afternoon) I’ll undercoat them – then all these recon units can be commenced.